Precision brakes Kit:

Those rotors are massive. I couldn't help but feel warm and happy inside when I handled them. Slotted rotors are better than cross drilled for any racing application despite the extra weight. Don't believe me? Look under the wheel of any pro race car. You have to torque those hex key bolts down in a crisscross pattern in two stages, like a flywheel, to prevent warping the hat.

Calipers:

The Wilwood FSL (Forged Superlite) calipers feel super solid, and are about 1 zillionth of the weight of the cast iron anchors that came on the car. That bridge bolt is why I went with this caliper as opposed to the Dynalites that usually come with this kit. Pretty much any good racing caliper is going to have at least one, and usually 2 or 4 of these to further promote caliper rigidity. The nice thing about this setup as well is that Wilwoods are quite serviceable, and parts are easy to obtain in the US. 

Padding:

These things are really freaking thick. I didn't like them at first but since I've bedded them in they work really nicely cold and they freaking STOP you after you heat them up a little. They don't seem like they'll work for crazy crazy high temp stuff according to their chart but hey, who knows..

Installing these things took some doing. I had a bunch of other stuff planned to do at the same time. The Bearings, drivers side axle, and a ball joint all on top of the brakes. I wanted it all to work perfectly when I eased into the brakes at 100+mph.

I removed the knuckle on each side and pressed out the hub. From there unbolted the bearing assembly and hammered it out. Then I hammered out the ball joint (drivers side). Get a ball joint puller if you don't already have one.

I pressed those longer wheel studs in before I pressed the hub onto the bearing. Yes that is a CL hub, which of course didn't fit the bbk designed for an accord hub. I thought the offset would be the same but there was no reason to do it in the first place. Live and learn.

Here the caliper and rotor are test fitted. They didn't fit. That was due to me swapping the stock hubs for the CL units. Once i put the accord hubs back on it fit perfect. I Just needed to bleed them after this. Each caliper has two bleeders. One for each pairs of pistons. I initially didn't bleed them well enough, I've never liked bleeding brakes. 

I switched back to the Accord hubs so that everything would fit like it was supposed to, while I was in there I did ARP wheel studs for extra length and durability. It was an all day job swapping out my new CL hubs for the old Accord ones but not nearly as bad as putting the brakes on in the first place. Here's the new assembly all done and ready for the brakes to come back on. This side was a piece of cake unlike the other side which had a damaged hub lip.

Wheel studs from left to right: stock Accord, stock CL, Precision brake kit, and ARP (2.75"?)